It is an annual summer pilgrimage for us “desert rat ultra runners” living in Phoenix. A chance to escape the sweltering heat and enjoy a sweet respite of cooler weather . Some locals may call us the weekend warriors of altitude, but nonetheless we are happy to migrate north for some of the best trail running our state has to offer in the summertime. No, Arizona is not just desert. I was first initiated into the beauty and benefits of a weekend away on the trails north of Flagstaff could be while training for my first 100 mile race, Angeles Crest back in 2007. The “old guard” of Arizona ultra runners had been using the trails around the San Francisco Peaks as their sacred training ground for years and I soon learned their ways.
View from atop the Sunset Trail
As the temperatures in Phoenix pushed well into the triple digits this past weekend, and 9 hours of trail running was ominously taunting me from the page of my training schedule, I knew I had to head to Flagstaff. The higher altitude (ranging from 7,000 to 12,600 feet), pine forests, cooler temperatures, snow fields and chance to encounter wildlife all drew me north. I planned a 24 hour turnaround trip where I got in a 5 1/2 hour run on Saturday afternoon/evening that took me from the Upper Oldham trail at the base of the Dry Lake Hills up and over to Shultz Tank and an out and back up the Weatherford Trail to Fremont Saddle high in the San Francisco Peaks. I motored my way up the climbs, enjoying the amazing scenery and fresh pine scent of the Kachina Peaks Wilderness. I encountered snowfields past Doyle Saddle that made running nearly impossible, but the chance for adventure mandatory. I scurried over these large drifts of snow, the last remains of winter clinging to the north face of the volcanic slopes.
Snow in June
A view of the Inner Basin
Weatherford Trail at sunset
I turned around at 6:30pm up above 11,500 feet, many miles from my car and it was a race against the setting sun as I bombed back down towards Shultz tank and powered up the Sunset trail into the night. I was thoroughly spent after the final hour in darkness on the Brookbank Trail, but got up the next morning for another 3 1/2 hours of running and fast hiking up to the top of Mount Humphries, the highest peak in Arizona. It was a picture perfect day, sunny skies, mild temperatures and a sky so vibrantly blue I thought I was looking out the window of an airplane. This is what Flagstaff is all about.
The author on the Weatherford Trail
San Francisco Peaks
Weatherford Trail
If you haven’t run trails in Flagstaff before, or are looking for some new ideas, I’d like to share my picks for great trail runs and some of my other Flagstaff favorites on where to buy gear, food, beers and of course race.
Beginner Friendly Trails
If you are new to running in Flagstaff, I would recommend starting off with the Shultz Creek Trail which is easily accessible near town and offers a mellow grade and smooth path as you wind your way through the pines up to Shultz Tank.
If you are looking for a more challenging hike/run, check out the lung busting Elden Lookout Trail which climbs over 2000 feet in 2.5 miles up to the Elden Towers, topping out at 9,280 feet. If you are a Camelback or Piestewa Peak fanatic in Phoenix, this trail is for you.
Advanced Loops
Training for a summer 100 at altitude? Here are the two loops that I ran back in 2007 on back to back days while training for the Angeles Crest 100. Both start and finish at Shultz Tank, so you can even camp out in between each, making for a great way to spend the weekend training at altitude.
The first is the “peaks loop” which takes the Weatherford Trail up from Shultz Tank and then following the Kachina Trail through the Kachina Peaks Wilderness to the Arizona Snowbowl. Water and restrooms are available starting mid-morning at the ski lodge. From here, take the Humphries Trail up to the summit of Arizona’s highest peak at 12,633 feet. Backtrack a mile and head back down the Weatherford Trail across Fremont and Doyle Saddles, completing the loop. This is close to a 23 mile run and ranges in elevation from 7,995 to 12,633 feet.
The “Elden Loop” is a more mellow version of the peaks loop, lower in elevation and much more “runnable”. Start again from Shultz Tank, heading East on the Little Elden Trail as it wraps its way to the south around Little Elden Mountain. You will see remnants of the Shultz fire from 2010 here. Next, hop on Christmas Tree trail, go past Fat Man’s Loop and connect with Forces of Nature Trail. You will now be right next to town as you make your way into Pipeline Trail and connect with Easy Oldham before taking Rocky Ridge to the Shultz Creek Trailhead. Join with Shultz Creek which will wind your way back up to Shultz Tank. This loop is about 18.5 miles and ranges in elevation from 6,950 to 8,070 feet.
Running Gear & Nutrition
There are many outdoor stores in Flagstaff to choose from, but I recommend one in particular for your running needs – Run Flagstaff. Owner/manager Vince Sherry has been an integral part of the Flagstaff running community for many years and they are a great source for local knowledge. They carry a wide selection of shoes, apparel, nutritional products and trails maps. Check them out at 204 East Route 66 near downtown.
Trail Map
I’ve been using the “FLAGSTAFF Trails Map” from Emitt Barks Cartography which shows almost every imaginable trail in the Flagstaff area in a large, easy to read and waterproof map that is widely available in most outdoor shops in Flagstaff.
Trail Running Group
If you one who prefers to run with a group, take a look at the Northern Arizona Trail Runners Association (NATRA). I’ve joined them on their weekly group run several times and they are friendly and eager to share their local trails with anyone. Neil Weintraub who manages the group is also the race director for the Flagstaff summer running series.
Post Run Food/Beer
If I am ever in town visiting my good friend Ian Torrence, it is a sure bet we will be going to Flagstaff Brewing Company (or Flag Brew for short). They have local brews and good hearty food to fuel up on after a couple of long runs.
Although I have yet to try it, I have heard great reviews about local elite runner and owner Caleb Schiff’s Pizzicletta restaurant which makes hand tossed wood fired pizzas each evening.
Races
There are many races in Flagstaff across the summer, but most stick to the roads or short trails. I of course have to heartily recommend Aravaipa Running’s Flagstaff 50’s Endurance Runs. Even if I didn’t create and organize this event, I would be stoked on it. We are talking about a seriously difficult course on tough and scenic trails that starts in town and meanders all over Mount Elden and the Dry Lake Hills. The 50 mile course even gets you as close to the Kachina Peaks Wilderness and San Francisco Peaks as a race is permitted to (there are no organized events allowed in wilderness). This is Flagstaff’s first and only organized ultra marathon and many said it would never happen. Well, here is your chance to run in what is to be an “instant classic” on the ultra circuit.
Place To Stay
Rob Decot, who placed 9th at this year’s Crown King Scramble 50K has a place in Kachina Village near Flagstaff that he is renting out all of June for $300 per week. Contact jamil@aravaiparunning.com for more information.
Simply EPIC